Winter in Japan — Kyoto

Wow — the last of my 4-part journal series on winter in Japan. If you missed it, my posts on Tokyo, Gifu Prefecture & Osaka are here. This one is a whopper of a post! Mainly because Kyoto was such a dream to me. There is so much to see and do here, and so much culture reminiscent of old Japan. Surrounded by mountains, captivating hidden gardens and quiet nooks (yes, even with such a touristy place!), temples and even shopping. Delve further on train and you’ll discover even more beautiful landscapes, enveloped in winter!

VISIT

Taking the train from Tokyo to Kyoto takes around 2-4 hours, depending on which Shinkansen (bullet train) you choose. From either Tokyo Station or Shinagawa Station, the Hikari will take 2 hours, while the Kodoma, which stops at smaller towns on the way, takes around 4 hours. Without a JR Pass, a one-way ticket from Tokyo to Kyoto costs around 14,230¥ (around $200NZD). You can also hire a rental and drive, which takes 5 hours, however take note that there are road tolls you’ll need to pay.

STAY

I used AirBnb for most of my trips in Japan and for Kyoto we chose to stay here:

SIGHTS

Central Kyoto

On my trip I had this intense desire to explore Central Kyoto by bike and it was great! I rented one through Kyoto Rental Cycle and it was a TokyoBike — a Japanese bicycle company with gorgeous minimal bikes focused on the idea that the bike is simply a way to enjoy the city, as much about the journey as the destination. I wandered the riverbanks of Kyoto, scoured the markets of Nishiki and of course, explored the streets of Kyoto!

I also visited Kinse Ryokan, a 200-year-old Kyoto ryokan reimagined as a cafe, bar, and guest space. Here, I learned the art of Ikebana — something I am very passionate about. It is actually in Kyoto that the art of Ikebana was founded. You can find the experience here.

If you visit Kyoto, get yourself into a workshop, whether it be ikebana, tea ceremonies or even book making classes. Japanese craft is really next level.

Fushimi Inari-Taisha Shrine

The popular Fushimi Inari is a must-do in Kyoto. Dedicated to the god of rice and sake, around 5,000 Torii gates wind through the hills behind the shrine. Torii gates mark the transition from our ordinary world to the extraordinary world of the gods, so you'll find them at the entranceways to Shinto shrines. Be prepared for a LOT of crowds, although much like anything, if you wait patiently, you’re sure to get a picture without anyone around! P.S. Try to find the hidden bamboo grove amongst the torii..

One more thing — places are popular for a reason, whether they are just so magnificent, out of the norm and downright beautiful. Our world is meant to be shared and explored so please don’t be disheartened or negative towards crowds of people, who have just as much right to be there as anybody. Let them take their photos, let them pose and take their time and treat everyone with the same kindness and respect you want to be treated.

Moment of calm amongst the chaos..

Daigo-ji Temple

A beautiful red Buddhist temple, complete with bridge and water, Daigo-ji is best kept coming back to. The photos I’ve seen of this place in the other seasons (Autumn & Cherry Blossom) are stunning. Don’t miss the other important buildings in the area like the Reihokan museum and keep in mind there are entrance fees to this place (1500¥ peak season / 800¥ off peak). And one more thing, for those who want to visit at sunset — the place closes at either 4 or 5pm depending on the season. Plan your tip accordingly as they do shut a gate and you might get locked in.

Arashiyama Bamboo Grove

Famous for it’s dense forest of bamboo, the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove is one of the most photographed spots in Kyoto. Of course, that means it’s packed with people SO as with any popular spot, if you want this place to yourself and capture it in it’s most peaceful, visit at sunrise. It is so worth it - if you’re lucky you might even spot a local walking their dog.

Shiga Prefecture
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Metasequoia Namiki

This Metasequoia tree-lined avenue is one of those magical sights you chase. I had initially seen a poster of this in some train station in Kyoto and had wondered where it was. After some online searching I was able to find it. Captivating in any season, you can get to the Metasequoia Namiki by taking a train to Makino Station. As it was the dead of winter when I visited, I had little to no idea of how to get to it and there was no one around to ask so I decided to walk to the avenue. Following Google Maps I made my way, walking for about an hour with a lot of photography stops in between. When I got there the road had these cars going through and it looked so beautiful - a slice of normal rural Japanese life, going about their day, with this stunning avenue just a normal part of their commute. I relished in it and when the road was empty I, of course, took the opportunity to get the straight shot. Please use your common sense and watch the road before taking shots like these. I easily spent another hour photographing and walking around. When I was ready to go, a taxi man explained to me that there was a bus stop a few metres from where I was at the avenue — right across Makino Pickland (you’ll see this on Google Maps). This will take you right back to the train station you first started in and voila!

Nagisa Park

Note: There is a personal story accompanying this part, as I associate these images to my experience. Skip if you’d like to just get to the pretty pictures.
A charming park of mustard yellow flowers and the mountains of Kyoto in the background, I couldn’t miss this place! An hour and 20 minutes away from Makino Station in Shiga, Katata station is the nearest train station to the fields. I took a taxi to the fields from there but had left my phone in the cab! Still clueless that I had done so, I spent around half an hour photographing the beautiful fields. Once I had realised I had lost my phone, I started panicking and tried to relay the situation to the people in a small booth at the entrance, manning the field. Unfortunately, they didn’t speak any English and I didn’t speak any Japanese so we couldn’t communicate with each other. To cut a long story short, a couple who spoke both English and Japanese translated me to a group of older Japanese women - who offered to give me a ride back to the train station! I was so unbelievably touched by such generous offers from complete strangers. I was taken back to the train station and lo and behold sitting next to it was the local police station - in which one the ladies urged me to go in. She explained to the policemen what had happened and what do you know, my phone was even handed in to them (by the taxi driver)! Japan is just full of really kind-hearted people, ready to help and so honest and respectful. When I look at pictures of Nagisa Park, I immediately just think of that ordeal and how lovely they were to me.

If you’ve reached this far, thank you for taking the time to read all about my adventures in Japan! I know I’ll keep coming back to this wonderful country for many many years to come. Until then, sayonara! — M.