South Australia & the Outback

How can anyone not fall in love with South Australia? There is no shortage of beauty in this part of the world and I am so happy we managed to see it before the global pandemic hit. South Australia is varied in it’s landscapes - from crystal clear, white sand beaches to opal mines, lunar landscapes and rusted deserts. This was my first visit and I was looking forward to all the dreamscapes that awaited me. I’ve provided a little bit of info of what to expect on your visit but you can skip ahead to Sights if you just want to see the pretty pictures!

INFO

• South Australia has something for everybody – art and festivals in Adelaide, wineries in the Barossa and Clare Valley, vineyards and stunning beaches in the Fleurieu Peninsula. See Kangaroo Island for diverse activities and get lost in lunar landscape, arid areas and desert in Coober Pedy and the north. There are pristine sands, seaside towns and wildlife spotting in the Eyre Peninsula, mountains and hiking in the Flinders Ranges and R&R by the Murray River. There is just a lot to see and do and it’s best to establish what you’d like to see and what interests you beforehand and plan around it.

• In all of the beautiful pictures, magazine articles and guides I had seen, no one ever mentions the true menace of South Australia — the FLIES. All of the legends are true, they are notorious for swarming you. At any time of the day, as soon as you step out of your car, these flies will constantly bombard any exposed part of you, from your eyes and face to the back of your t-shirt and legs. They can even sit on your camera and gear in between the motions of shoo-ing them away. The reason these guys are so persistent is that they feed off your blood, sweat, mucus and tears (GROSS) and need that protein in order to breed and yes, survive. Aeroguard Spray Repellant is essential — and a net around your face is recommended. You look ridiculous but it is a small price to pay for the comfort of not having a hoard of flies sit on your face. The shoo-ing is still unavoidable, however.

• Another thing to look out for is snakes. Watch out when entering bush or long grass, best to wear boots in this scenario, and of course, do not agitate it or try and pick it up!

• A South Australian road trip, which I highly recommend, can be a long, long drive. We clocked in 5,300 km in 8 days as we drove south to north. Good playlists & podcasts are required.

• Some national parks and areas are Aboriginal-owned landmarks or spiritual land, such as the Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park or parts of the Flinders Ranges. Be respectful - follow the signs and respect the culture. Or else you’ll get bad juju.

• The open road in SA has a speed limit of 110km/hr and drops to about 60km/hr when approaching towns. Do NOT go over the speed limit no matter how tempting it may be. Kangaroos, emus and other wildlife may wander on to the road so be wary. Sadly, it is quite common to see dead kangaroos on the side of the road. Plus the Australian speeding fines are quite steep.

• Get a local SIM card to save on spending A LOT for data. Roaming can get quite expensive and usually local SIM card packs have deals that make it cheaper and easier to use. HOWEVER, you will need your passport to confirm your identity if done online (my New Zealand one didn’t seem to go through so we had to use a friend’s one - eep). You can get away with that by visiting the local mobile service shop and presenting them with one.

• Mobile coverage can be pretty patchy so before you go out into the wild ensure you let somebody know where you will be going, how long and when you intend to come back. Even if it’s a family member in another region, a friend in another country or if you have no one to tell, the concierge at your hotel/accomodation (they are not responsible for you but if anything happens at least they know the details of your whereabouts) - this is ESSENTIAL in keeping safe. I cannot stress this enough.

• To keep that water cool during long drives and arid destinations, use a thermal stainless steel bottle. It keeps liquids cool for as long as 24 hours and hot for up to 12 hours. This is a lifesaver in such warm temperatures! I use this guy.

• Must bring at all times: sunscreen, hats, net, water and camera. No exceptions.

SEASONS

This place is the epitome of “sun-kissed”. South Australia has mild winters and dry, warm summers. Make sure you ALWAYS wear sunscreen no matter what time and where you are headed. We visited in summer and at it’s highest for us the temperature was 38º but this could easily go past 40º. There is hardly any rain - in fact, when we asked someone in Coober Pedy, they said it rained only once in three years. Light clothing, a jacket and boots are recommended.

SIGHTS

Coober Pedy

The highlight of my trip - Coober Pedy and it’s surrounding areas is such an underrated part of Australia. Coober Pedy is located in northern South Australia. It is a 9 hour drive from Adelaide however the scenery is out of this world. The drive takes you past shimmering salt lakes, scrub bushes, skeletal trees and vast expanses of burnt orange dusted lands. I kid you not - tumble weed even rolled across the road on one of our drives.

Coober Pedy itself is an opal mining town, responsible for producing 95% of the world’s commercial opal. You will see the mining fields right next to the highway as you enter and leave the town, which itself is a beautiful sight. Coober Pedy has also been featured in film locations such as Mad Max and Pitch Black. Another feature of the town is how people live in underground homes to get away from the heat and flies. We stayed in the Desert Cave Underground Hotel and it was a welcome respite to the outside world. There is even an underground bar, restaurant and even a church!

*One of the opal mining fields. Warning signs state to keep off the grounds as there are deep, deep holes in between these mounds.*

*The famous Coober Pedy sign, accessible through the route on the hill to the right*

*Spaced Out - Spaceship used as prop for the movie Pitch Black*

The Breakaways

An otherworldly spot near Coober Pedy is the Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park. It is Aboriginal owned and a registered aboriginal heritage site. Here, the low colourful hills surround a vast open space, which look to have broken away from the Stuart Range hence the name “Breakaways”. Peek the lookouts and don’t miss the “Two Dogs”, the brown and white hills further down. Drive 70kms around the park and see the Dog Fence, a 2m high fence that stretched 5,300kms long to keep sheep safe from the Australian native dog, the Dingo. You’ll pass by an area called the Moon Plains, a lunar dreamscape. I recommend visiting this place at sunset, when the skies turn pastel, and if you time it right, you could even get a full moon rising over the hills!

Carrickalinga and Port Willunga

About an hour from Adelaide sits the Fleurieu Peninsula, where beautiful beaches and coastal views abound. Carrickalinga amazed me with it’s white sands, crystal waters, lovely rock pools and low key atmosphere. If you are after some stunning sunsets, head to Port Willunga. This is a photography hotspot so prepare for more people about during golden hour. The old jetty ruins are a crowd favourite and you’ll soon see a few clusters of avid photography enthusiasts. The caves that you see I’m in at Port Willunga Beach were carved out of the limestone by fisherman who used to store their boats inside.

Lake Bumbunga

This salt lake is known for it’s beautiful pink hue, which changes colour depending on the salinity of the water. Located in Lochiel, there is a designated carpark next to it with a walk that goes on to a little lookout. You can actually even walk onto the salt lake itself but watch for its water levels.

Whyalla and Port Lowly

Whyalla and nearby Port Lowly is located in the Eyre Peninsula and has the dreamiest lighthouse complete with a tucked away cottage. The salt lakes are not far from the main town and produce an array of beautiful palettes from above. Though no matter what angle, it’s bound to be pretty.

Flinders Ranges

On one of our last days in SA, we visited the Flinders Ranges — which is the largest mountain range in Australia. I found it rugged, rough and wild, reminiscent of the Blue Mountains in Sydney. We ventured to the Sacred Canyon - an Aboriginal Heritage site with engravings. See below for some of them!

*Aboriginal Engravings: The circles represent “Rockpool/Spring” and the little arrows signify “Kangaroo”*

SA is an amazing region of Australia that shouldn’t be overlooked when visiting the country! I know I’m definitely coming back to see things I missed - Kangaroo Island, Lake Eyre and perhaps flying over Wilpena Pound… I hope you too get to see this dreamy place! xM