Winter Wonderland in the Canadian Rockies
Frozen lakes, frosted mountains, icy streets, fairytale castles and snow-globe towns — if there ever was a winter wonderland, Banff & Jasper National Parks would be it. There is so much to see and do here in winter, from more adventurous activities like waterfall scaling and of course, skiing + snowboarding to sightseeing and ice skating. For those who want to photograph winter in the Rockies, I’ve put together a guide of my favourite scenic spots with some tips to help you plan your next trip.
VISIT
To get to the Rockies, the easiest way would be to fly into Calgary International Airport. Being an hour and a half away from Banff National Park, this is the most convenient way to get in. You can take the shuttle in or hire a car to get into Banff. Another way to travel would be to road trip across. For reference, Vancouver is about a 9 hour drive.
Weather-wise, winter in Alberta starts around November and can last until April! Indeed, my windscreen still froze mid-April. The coldest months are January and February.
All visitors require a Park Pass to get into National Parks - Banff and Jasper are two seperate passes you’ll need to get if you wish to explore them!
STAY
Fairmont Lake Louise or Fairmont Banff Springs • $$$
If there was one place to splurge out on stays, it would be the Fairmont Hotels. Both have their pros - the Fairmont Lake Louise is right by the lake (meaning you don’t need to worry about parking, and you have access to the lake right by your doorstep, not to mention the stunning views). The Fairmont Banff Springs on the other hand is closer to the Banff township and also features amazing spa pools and classic Canadian architecture - it’s also called the “Castle in the Rockies”. Both hotels feature a variety of restaurants and dining options as well.
The Post Hotel Lake Louise • $$
The Post Hotel is a beautiful stay, complete with warm lounges, a decadent indoor pool, sauna and hot tub + a good fine dining restaurant. We visited in the middle of the Christmas season and it was all kinds of cosy, with a roaring fireplace, Christmas lights and decorations and even a little frozen pond turned ice skating rink! Looking straight out of a Hallmark movie.
Lake Louise Inn • $
With humble rooms and unassuming areas, the Lake Louise Inn is a great option for families and those not looking to break the bank! With a heated pool, three hot tubs and three restaurants, there’s a lot of options to choose from here.
Fairmont Lake Louise
Fairmont Banff Springs
The Post Hotel from the main road - the rooms are right across and you open your balcony to a row of Christmas Trees!
Close-up of the twinkling trees
SEE
— Lake Louise
Of course, winter in Lake Louise is a must! From October to around March, enjoy snow-filled scenes all around the lake - sleigh rides, ice sculpture competitions and cross-country skiing on the lake. At around December to January, the Fairmont Lake Louise makes a section of the lake into an ice rink and maintains it. It’s open to the public and lights are placed to skate in the evenings too. Lake Louise is straight out of a made-for-tv Christmas movie.
— Icefields Parkway
Hailed as one of the most beautiful scenic drives in the world, the Icefields Parkway in winter is something else. A 227km road that connects Lake Louise to Jasper, this parkway boasts numerous scenic stops and enchanting wintertime views. My favourites are the Bow Lake viewpoint and the Columbia Icefield glacier. Beware though - driving this road in the wintertime can be dangerous! Here’s a few tips to make sure you’re safe and well-prepared for this trip:
• Winter tires are a must and non-negotiable. Icy roads are dangerous.
• Sometimes the road is so covered in snow that you can’t even see the markings! Drive carefully and smoothly, with gradual braking
• Check Avalanche Canada & 511 apps for any warnings beforehand
• Driving in winter is next level — the roads often do get closed due to avalanche/road maintenance so it’s best to have backup plans if your destination is inaccessible
• There aren’t many places to pull over and stop (if you wanted to take photos), so keep an eye out for the lookouts & fingers crossed the entrance is plowed
— Abraham Lake
I don’t know what I was expecting when I looked up Abraham Lake but I was blown away! Bubbles lie beneath ice as if frozen in time. In December as the lake begins to freeze, these methane bubbles stack on top of each other creating varying depths and sizes. The best time to see this though is in early January, when there is just enough ice to see the bubbles but not so much that it’s already been scratched and blown over with snow from the wind. Overall, this is one of the highlights of my winter here in Alberta, seeing as not many lakes in the world have this phenomenon.
— Maligne Canyon (Jasper)
We visited Maligne Canyon in January and absolutely loved it. Leaving early in the day, we drove from Jasper town to the canyon which is less than 15 minutes. Leaving early helps us avoid crowds and get there before the tours start. The best thing about visiting in the winter is that you can actually get down to the canyon floor. And it’s pure magic. Picture frozen waterfalls, icicles and canyon floors in ice - it’s been one of the most magical experiences of my life. I recommend doing this with a guide however it is totally possible to do this self-guided. I do have a few warnings before attempting to do this by yourself!
Underneath the ice, the river is still flowing! If you fall through the ice and into the freezing water, there’s a good chance you won’t be able to be retrieved. Before heading to the canyon, make sure that the season has been cold enough and that the ice is thick enough to be frozen solid. Do your research, call the visitor centres for information. When walking through parts that you think looks dodgy, test a part of it not fully placing your weight down before committing to a step. Better to be safe than sorry!
All throughout the walk you’ll see signs for the risk you’re taking walking the canyon in winter. And for good measure, it can be very dangerous. Stay away from the edge of things if you’re not comfortable and don’t do anything silly just for the gram! It’s not worth it!
Gear such as crampons, helmets, head torches and poles can come a long way. I highly recommend bringing crampons the most as it makes the walk so much easier. The ice floor can get very slippery and there are sections you’ll need to climb a little bit so even simple ones that slip around your boots and have little metal spikes on the bottom will do.
Now that that’s out of the way, you may ask - how do we get to canyon floor? Well, the main place that most people access the canyon floor is a gate that is located between Fifth and Fourth Bridges, on the north side of the river. It is much closer to 4th bridge, so if you’re walking downhill from the First Bridge Parking Lot, you’ll see the gate soon after passing Fourth Bridge. There is a huge sign right at the gate entrance as well as a hole in the fence right next to it. There are multiple gates that could be mistaken for this one but this has a little hill heading down that you’ll need to slide/walk carefully as well as a few trees bordering it. Sometimes the gate is open, other times closed and you’ll have to climb over the fence to get down. On our way back the gate was open and tours were starting to head down (one of the reasons why I start early is to avoid them and perhaps the warnings from guides cautioning you doing this alone).
Once you’re through, head upstream and enjoy the walk. Peer behind the frozen waterfalls and look above to see millions of years of formations.
— Pyramid Lake (Jasper)
A little stop in our trip to Jasper, I really wanted to see a frozen Pyramid Lake. I had seen photos of the bridge heading into a little island in the middle of a lake and was completely enamoured. If you stop by Jasper, do check this spot out!
— Bow Valley Parkway
The Bow Valley Parkway is one my favourite places to photograph winter in Banff National Park. The reason being how different the landscapes of the lookouts look in different lights as well as being generally less crowded than the main tourist spots like Lake Louise. It’s also such a good scenic drive from Banff to Lake Louise. Allow a couple of hours to see the sights here!
Morants Curve - my favourite spot on the parkway. Trains are hard to come by though - I waited for 3 hours in the cold for this!
Storm Mountain Lookout
Sunrise at the lookout
Castle Mountain
— Johnston Canyon
Last but not least is the stunning Johnston Canyon. Technically located in the Bow Valley Parkway so this should be in the section above but it’s just so stunning, it deserves it’s own feature! The canyon walk is classed as easy and takeabout 2 hours to get through. It’s very well-maintained, even in the winter, and sees you through wooded forests, canyon walls and even frozen waterfalls. Make sure not to miss this one if you ever visit the Rockies in winter!
