Winter in Japan — Gifu Prefecture

Gifu Prefecture is an area located in central Japan, in the Chūbu region of Honshu, that is abundant in history and rich in natural environments. I knew I HAD to see this place. Beautiful in all seasons but especially breathtaking in winter, this is easily my favourite part of my trip to Japan and if I had known, I think I would have spent a few more days exploring this region.

There are a lot of towns and villages in the Gifu Prefecture with the most popular being Shirakawa-gō, Gero, Hida Furukawa and Takayama. People from all over the world flock to this part of Japan because of it’s beauty but amongst the locals it is also known for it’s industry in traditional Washi paper, Cormorant fishing on the Nagara River and sword making from back in the day.

We had only a few days in the area and so decided to stay and see the lovely town of Takayama and the UNESCO World Heritage Shirakawa-gō.

Takayama

The cutest little city with such a rich culture - Takayama is one of the main sights in the Gifu Prefecture. It’s located in the Hida region and is complete with a beautiful town centre, a river running through it and even morning markets! The people who live in the area have always co-existed and have had a deep relationship with the 3000 meter high mountains that surround them. Because of this they have extensive knowledge and appreciation of the mountains, the trees and nature and how to work with it. Apparently, history says they were exempt from a few tax rules imposed some 1300 years ago to every citizen in Japan - the only condition was that they were required to do woodworking in Tokyo. This was because even then their knowledge and skill was greatly revered and sought after. The town of Takayama has gone mostly untouched by time and you can really see this when you wander it’s streets. With the temperature in the winter being extremely low and terracotta tiles not suitable for the roofs, Takayama houses use split timbers layered at a gentle angle for thatch roofs. Local residents have preserved their town so beautifully and knowing it’s history makes the appreciation even greater.

VISIT

It takes roughly 4 hours to reach Takayama from Tokyo. To get there, head to Tokyo Station and take the Tokaido-Sanyo Shinkansen Nozomi (the Nozomi is actually the fastest of this particular line as it only stops at major stations) to Nagoya Station with the journey taking 1.5 hours. From there, take the Hida Limited Express towards Takayama for another 2.5 hours.

Remember you must get the tickets from the JR ticket office, ticket windows or Shinkansen vending machines at the train station or online and have it delivered to you. As trains are already scheduled for each day, you can buy your tickets in advance. This is advisable as in the busy period like New Years Eve or Cherry Blossom Season seats can sell out in advance OR the queues at the ticket stations can be very long (this hasn’t happened to me yet but I’m always pretty wary of it so end up planning ahead!). For Green JR pass holders, you can buy reserved seats for First-class cars called Green Cars where you are guaranteed a comfortable seat on the bullet train or limited express trains (recommended for a good few hours on the train). For Ordinary JR pass holders, there is more flexibility in that you can just pass through the ticket gate and hop in an unreserved car on the next shinkansen or tokkyu leaving the station.

Views from the train

Entrance to Takayama, with station in the background

SIGHTS

Sanmachi

Quaint streets lined with sake breweries, museums and small shopping. Local artisan goods can be found here along with the Japanese style houses and architecture to admire. As soon as we woke up to see snow falling, we came right here to an empty beautiful street and felt like we were transported back in time to old Japan. This main street gets pretty crowded as the day goes on but check out the other streets as well, as there are quieter ones and just as pretty.

Keep your eye out for the cute Sarubobos, the Japanese amulet of red human-shaped dolls particular to Takayama! They are everywhere and make for sweet souvenirs as they are said to bring good fortune.

Takayama Cemetery

This is something we chanced upon while exploring Takayama. I like visiting cemeteries and graves — to me it gives an insight into the lives of people who live here and the way they respect their dead. I also enjoy the sense of calm and peace, almost spiritual in these places. This particular cemetery sits atop of the hill, and we spent some time observing and watching Takayama from above.

Views from the cemetery

Peem at the steps

Well-maintained and respected

Little shack by the forest’s edge

Miyagawa Morning Market

The Miyagawa morning markets usually start at around 7am and run till noon. It runs next to the Miyagawa river and you can take your time strolling the stalls, peering over local produce, souvenirs and treats! I had my first Taiyaki, a Japanese waffle-like fish-shaped cake filled with custard inside. This is baked and made right in front of your eyes and best eaten fresh and warm on a cold wintery day..

Start of the Miyagawa Markets,
next to the river

The view across the markets

Shirakawa-gō

A village straight out of a fairytale, Shirakawa-gō was number one on my list to see for winter in Japan, especially when I found out about the Shirakawa-go Light Up Event . This is a must-see if you are in the Gifu Prefecture. Established as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, the village is made up of houses in the Gassho style which means “palms of the hands placed together, as in prayer”, which the construction resembles. Built with wooden beams that support the sloped, thatched roofs, these houses are ideal for Shirakawa-go’s heavy snowfall, which is some of Japan’s heaviest. It’s residents have worked hard to preserve these architectural settlements, with most of them being families that have lived there for generations and have opted a “do not sell, do not rent and do not destroy” principle.

VISIT

To get to Shirakawa-gō from Tokyo, the fastest way is by shinkansen and bus via Toyama; take the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Toyama (2 hours) and then take the bus from there to Shirakawa-gō. The trip can definitely be done in a day however make sure you don’t miss the last bus! We decided to stay at Takayama for 2 nights so we didn’t need to rush to see Shirakawa-go. From Takayama, you can take a bus headed towards Shirakawa-go from the bus station next to the main train station. I definitely recommend spending a few days in the area though to check out the other villages - I will be going back for the Gero Onsen, Hida Furukawa and of course Shirakawa-go again!

Gassho-style traditional house

If you plan to see this breathtaking place in winter, I do recommend visiting during the Light Up Event. You’ll find certain houses in the village lit up as soon as it gets dark, making the place even more magical - almost like a village in a snowglobe. But first some tips on this..

SHIRAKAWA-GO LIGHT UP EVENT (5.30-7.30pm)

• Booking
There are only 6 nights for this extremely popular event (from mid January to early February) and reservations usually begin on Oct 1. Thousands of people from all over flock to this part of the country just to see this and there is a limited number of visitors allowed per event day, so I 100% suggest booking as soon as you can. Whether you’d like to stay the night at one of the houses (yes, that’s an option but you need to book in at least 6 months in advance), get a parking slot for driving in, or get in with a tour — book fast!

• By Car or By Bus Tour
The only options for visiting the Light Up Event is by driving yourself in, taking a taxi (very expensive) or through a bus tour. If you are driving in or taking a taxi, you’ll need to apply for a parking slot here. If you are visiting with a tour, there are a few travel agencies that promote this - have a look online and see what works best for you. The Japan Highway Bus company does a special guided tour as well and you can book here, here and here. Check to see if they include access to the observation deck too! These bus tours usually depart from Takayama or Toyama station, so staying at one of these places is recommended!

• Observation Deck
My number one regret from my trip to Japan was not being able to see this village from the observation deck during this event. The observation deck is perched up roughly 20 minutes on foot and gives a full view of the village, which you can imagine is as dreamy and magical as it looks. As mentioned, this is an extremely popular event so there are limited tickets to allow access to the observation deck. When booking your tour, read carefully and check to see if it includes access to the observation deck. I researched and looked to book on October the previous year and all the tours with tickets to the deck were all booked out! This just means I need to come back again — Winter 2021!

Blanketed in snow, with the path to the observatory in the background

Remember to dress warmly and appropriately. Wear some good snowboots to trudge through the snow in or waterproof shoes, and layers and layers of clothing because it does get really, really cold out there. Be prepared for rain too and maybe take a raincoat or an umbrella just in case.

Hope you get to wander to this part of the country because regardless of what time of the year it is, it is beautiful! And I hope you’ve enjoyed another journal post of my winter trip to Japan! - M.

My friends, always at play. Petra Leary & Peem Anakakul

Petra Leary, Jan 2019